Sunday, July 17, 2016

Welcome to the Jungle! (via Puerto Maldonado)

June 28, 2016

For our next destination, we plan to go the way of the Incas who crossed over the bridge from Machu Picchu and head toward the lowlands of the rainforest. Today we fly from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado in the Amazon river basin about 35 miles from the Bolivan border.  Our home for the next four nights, the Hacienda Concepcion, is located on the Madre de Dios river allowing us quick access to all the Amazonia flora and fauna of the Tambopata National Reserve.


Thank you Edwin for talking us safely about the roads of Cusco & the Sacred Valley!

This special lady tracked us down all the way from Pisac to the Cusco airport when she realized that she had overcharged us for goods purchased from her shop in the Sacred Valley, more than a week earlier.
Truly a testament of integrity of this Peruvian!  We would never have known...

Puerto Maldonado is the capital to the southern jungle-
We quickly noticed the heat & humidity and the absence of cars...

This guy in the yellow vest and helmet is a taxi driver-
locals (including small children) hop on the back sans helmet, long pants or any other such safety precautions...

First view of the muddy river-
even browner than the "Muddy Mississippi"
One of these boats took us about 30 minutes down river to our lodge.


The Hacienda Concepcion has an interesting history.  The estate, once a rubber plantation, was owned by a Spanish medical missionary who operated a hospital, school and church for the indigenous population and also grew cacao and rice and conducted research into tropical diseases.  In the 1950's he used a steam ship as a floating clinic to provide medical aid to the people along the river.
The pathway to the hacienda's Casa Grande where we were greeted with fresh squeezed mint lemonade- a perfect thirst quencher for this heat!

The boys are excited to have their own cabana-

-complete with mosquito nets!

Our first excursion, led by ex-military jungle expert and guide, Javier

This species is called the "Walking Palm"-
It has an unusual root system of  "legs" said to move the tree towards better sunlight.
It is postulated that the tree can "walk" 2-3 centimeters a day.

You know you are in the jungle when the leaves are as big as a 10 year old boy!

Our first (of many) monkey sighting-
Javier said the animals of this species are more like cats with the long bushy tail-
I think it is the Titi monkey...

Monkeys eating bananas...so cliche!

This guy is a Howler monkey-
it is rare for them to be active during the day, we heard them mostly at night!

Stringy, stretchable, natural rubber from a rubber tree

This sticky, milky latex dries into the elastic material seen in the photo above.

Brothers by the river on the evening of our first day-

Deep discussion... about the things of the jungle?... or the upcoming Pokeman battle?

The jungle after dark is an enticing prospect for young boys.
It turns out that during our stay we would have more than one opportunity to view the activity of the jungle at night...beginning with our first night's "Caiman Cruise".  We went out in the boat to try and spot the crocodile-like aquatic predator along the riverbanks.
The boys were not disappointed.
A juvenile spectacled caiman

No parents allowed at this table- :)


Saturday, July 16, 2016

Back to the Navel

June 26 (continued) & 27, 2016

Cusco was the capital city of the Incan empire where all the royal living & festivity, governing and worship was centered. The name Cusco literally means "navel". Similar to Rome,  all roads led to Cusco- and so, we boarded the train headed back to the Navel to further contemplate all that we experienced at one of the world's most visited sites.  Was Machu Picchu the Sapa Inca, Pachacutec's holiday retreat?  a holy nunnery? and/or a sacred pilgrimage site? So many unanswered questions...


Happy Boy

Faithful journaling

Silly Boy

Entertainment on the train is a little scary...

Cusco- the capital city
We concluded our last day in the Andean highlands touring the Cusco Cathedral, the Mercado Central de San Pedro and two of the major Incan ruins for a final look at the architectural skills of the Incas. We also did a little shopping at the local alpaca factories to find the perfect sweater.

When the Spanish conquered Peru they looted the gold and demolished the centers of worship then raised cathedrals on the foundations of the Incan temples. It is said that the city of Cusco was built in the shape of a Puma (the Incan symbol for earthly life) with the golden Temple of Inti (the sun) known as the Koricancha, Qoricancha or Coricancha (remember the no-rules spelling of the Quechua language) at the center.

Today the ruins of the Temple of the Sun hold up the Santo Domingo church.
The walls of the Koricancha are constructed with the most precise and finest carved stones-
no mortar and no space enough for even a human hair between the stones.
They were originally completely covered in gold.
These stonemasons had NO iron tools!  Hard to believe...

The left wall was built by the conquering Spaniards & the right wall by the Incas.

There is a saying-
"The right wall was built by the Incas and the left wall built by the "inca"pables"  Get it?!?
Our family's knowledge of engineering and architecture is extremely limited but you do not have to know much to appreciate the precision of the alignment of these 3 windows...

...or the fitting together of these puzzle-like "pillowed" stones!
Also, notice the size...and these are NOT the large ones.
We have now visited many different markets in both Ecuador and Peru but still managed to experience new sights, smells and tastes here at the Mercado Central de San Pedro.

We purchased a green fruit (cannot remember the name) that when eaten tasted like banana, mango and pineapple all in one bite! 
One round of this bread feeds a family of four for a week.
Did not have the nerve to taste this "jello" made solely of bone marrow...

...not sure how you eat cow nose...

The main Cathedral of Cusco on the Plaza de Armas- the main square in the historical district.
*No photos were allowed inside* So sorry we cannot show the painting of the Last Supper with a roasted guinea pig centerpiece!
From this plaza you can spot the tops of 13 more cathedrals.
Just on the outskirts of the city on a high ridge lies the ruins of ancient walls that are said to be the teeth of the puma-shaped city.  Saqsaywaman is constructed from massive stones- some are almost 30 feet high and estimated to weigh over 200 tons.

Ivan says the easiest way to remember the pronunciation is that it sounds like "sexy woman".


Stones from these walls continued to be removed and were used for constructing other buildings until the 1950s!
The areas where you see smaller stones are from today's reconstruction efforts to  preserve the ruins.

Really mind-boggling...how did they move and manipulate these rocks?!?!

View of the "navel of the earth" from Saqsaywaman

Thank you Ivan for sharing your experience and in-depth knowledge of your hometown and the Incan Empire!

Lovely walk for shopping and dinner at Chicha's


Friday, July 15, 2016

Final Trek on the Mountain

June 26, 2016

This morning we woke to a very different kind of day-
The weather on the mountain had changed and the clouds shrouded the landscape to offer a more mystical & otherworldly panorama.  Matt & Nash planned to hike the much less visited southern peak of Machu Picchu known as Machu Picchu (Old Mountain).  Ross & I were aiming to reach the Sun Gate.

The first light of the sun's morning illumination...

...quickly dimmed by the clouds

Nash with the backpack strapped on, anxious to make the 2-hour climb (that's just one-way) to 3,000 meters above sea level

Ross ready to walk through the clouds to the city's entrance

Just stunning-

The clouds grew thicker with the rise in altitude
Summit in only 62 minutes!
WOW!!!



No view of the right side up flying Condor from the top
well...slightly poking through...

A little added element of danger with the diminished visibility coming down-
yikes...
MEANWHILE...
Mom & Ross trekking along pretty well-


Reached the gate 15 minutes faster than mom & dad did the day before!

Quite a different view than the day before...

Everyone made it off the mountain safely-
This momma is thrilled!!!