Thursday, April 24, 2014

Pasquetta

Yes, Easter continues...
Pasquetta or Easter Monday is also a holiday.  In many Tuscan towns there are games, dances or concerts and we learned that typically it is a day that families enjoy picnics with leftovers from their Easter meal.   But in the historic center of Florence it means that lots of museums and shops are closed...
The boys however started their first day at Arte al Sole, an English speaking art school/camp held here at the "palace" as Frederico (our manager) calls it. They were both excited and a little apprehensive but as soon as they saw the other kids it was a "go."

After the boys were settled, Matt & I set out to explore the city-
We have been here 5 days now and have walked the Ponte Vecchio admiring all the goldsmith and silversmith shops many times but on this day we were early- walking across the bridge just as a few of the shops were opening...  it was such a fascinating site for me! All of these glass front shops were enclosed & protected by wooden fortress-like fronts... they were like life sized jewelry boxes being opened up... I imagine it has been like this since these stores were built in 13th century.  I am not sure why this simple daily routine for these merchants struck me so profoundly...anyway it was a good start to another history filled day.


Jewelry boxes waiting to be opened...
Another day's work...
Orsanmichele- a grain market turned church with statue filled niches -
bronzes by Donatello, Verrocchio and Ghiberti
Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise on the Baptistry doors


Our own Pasquetta "picnic"-


Dinner at the apartment
Reading at Piazza Santo Spirito
Ending the day with gelato

Buona Pasqua!

I am a few days behind but don't want to skip anything so this post is going to be dedicated to Easter (Pasqua).  Even though we are in a "foreign land" we had many opportunities to worship as a family and experience the beauty of Christ's sacrifice and resurrection.  Holy week is celebrated in a large way here-so many churches & so many traditions...
Before we left the US, I searched for English speaking churches in each of the places we are visiting & here in Firenze one of them happens to be right around the corner from our apartment, less than a 2 minute walk! On Good Friday (Venerdi Santo)we experienced an evening service of music and scripture that led us through the Stations of the Cross.  The worship time of God's Word read with very little rhetoric and the somber melodies by Franz Linszt was beautiful and moving.  There was a Saturday (Sabato Santo) candlelight service to end Lent that was a beautiful preparation for Sunday as well.

Then... Pasqua (Easter morning) and the Scoppio del Carro!-a grand spectacle & for us an exciting way to celebrate the Ressurrection of Christ-
The Florentines celebrate on this date with a tradition that dates back 350 years. A 3-story "cart" loaded with explosives is pulled by decorated white oxen and led by a procession of drummers and flag bearers all dressed in historical clothing into the Piazza del Duomo right between the Bapistry and the Duomo itself.  Then as the congregation inside concludes the "Alleluias", a  white rocket "dove" which represents the Holy Spirit, "flies" into the cart and sets off a 15 minute explosion of pyrotechnics which is the "holy fire" to symbolize new life.  (*There are other interpretations that relate to good harvest or good luck, but this is the one I adopted*)

We spent the rest of Easter day enjoying the wonderful sunshine, the views from a hilltop piazzale and walking a LONG route back to our apartment that took us by a park (an opportunity for more soccer play) and the ancient city gate of Florence.

Decorated white oxen
The white dove "rocket"
(photo taken by Nash atop Matt's shoulders)
Explosion of the cart
(another great shot by Nash)
At Piazzale Michelangelo overlooking the city of Florence-
See the Duomo, Campanile, Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio
Basilica San Miniato built in 1048 on one of the highest points in the city
Standing in front of the ancient city gates

P.S. I almost forgot...the Easter Bunny did make it to Italy-





**And Ross lost a tooth! ** 




Saturday, April 19, 2014

The Palace & Paper-

Pitti Palace- the last home of the Medici family
The view of Florence from the Palace
a bit of perspective on the size of the stones...
Smiles even though it is our first rainy day!
Locally owned stationary store where they make their own decorative papers-
Bellissimo!

Venerdi Santo, Science & Soccer-

Venerdi Santo (Good Friday)- "Le Tre Ore" (The Three Hours)
Beginning of the day with a time of meditative prayer-
Morning at the Museo Galileo
Contemplating scientific instruments from the 16th- 19th centuries...
but even more exciting to see...Galileo's right index finger, thumb and tooth!
Afternoon soccer play at Cascine Park
Keep away from Mom!
With Nash down, now is Ross' chance-
Our "neighborhood" church- where we ended the evening being led through Via Crucis (The Stations of the Cross)

Thursday, April 17, 2014

Powers & Towers-

Today we met Patrizia who will be our guide for 3 of the days we explore Florence. She is absolutely delighful, full of patience & knows how to keep two young boys interested in European history for 3 hours. It may have helped that she began our time together with a trip to the back door of a gelato artisan who showed us how this wonderful delectable is made- complete with tastings of freshly made flavors but nevertheless, she left us wanting to know more about this fascinating city full of stories of terrible tyrants and genius minds.
The boys got to make connections today of things that we read about before leaving the US- we saw the Duomo & Brunelleschi's dome and the graves of Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante & Machiavelli at the Basilica Santa Croce.  They were also especially interested in the powerful rule of the Medici family and  the medieval towers  that are still standing fully intact today after 900 years!  At one point we were standing in a square with 1st century remains of Roman baths, a 6th century Byzantine tower and a tower built in the 1100's- amazing!
All this history made us hungry.  We ended the day with a delicious meal and another "'first" for our trip.  The dish of the night was Trippa alla Fiorentina- cow stomach with tomatoes.  Everyone tried it- Matt ate most of it.  I will just say that the sauce was delicious and leave it at that.  Frederico (our apartment manager) says to enjoy it as a true Florentine we must also try it prepared another way as a sandwich...   We'll see...
I may stick to just trying new gelato flavors like the ones we tried earlier in the day- fig with ricotta, sesame, kiwi and "black" chocolate... YUM!
Patrizia, Nash & cool dude

Paolo and two eager boys
The magnificant Duomo

Medieval doors
Medieval tower

Bascilia Santa Croce- resting place of Michelangelo & other "greats"

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

First Landing...

"First landing" meaning our first temporary home in Italy vs. the first plane landng for the trip.  We flew to Atlanta then to Paris & arrived as scheduled in Florence this morning to a crisp & beautifully sunny spring day.  The puffy clouds, blue skies & green hills of Tuscany were a stunning sight.

Our apartment is one of seven apartments in a converted palace that was built in the 12th century.  The living space is very roomy and full of natural light. The ceiling is the actual roof of exposed beams and red ?pottery/brick. I don't think I will have any trouble staying here-
The boys love their loft "room" & were anxious to get in their beds this evening as they were so very  tired. Before we left home we journaled some "predictions" for the trip and all 3 Kaye men voted that I would be the first one asleep on the plane (HA!) but NONE of us slept.

So, for only about 1 hour of napping in 27 hours, I think we had a fantastic first day.

Quick summary:  Checked into apartment; ate lunch with a view of Pitti Palace; walked across the Ponte Vecchio bridge; ate gelato; checked out the statues at Piazza della Signoria; watched street artists at Piazza della Repubblica; ate gelato (again); followed a parade complete with Rennaissance clad magistrates, ladies, drummers & trumpeters honoring Filippo Brunelleschi (architect of the Duomo dome); dined on pizza at the apartment; bedded the boys nearly 3 hours before most Italians are having dinner!

Tomorrow we will sleep in!

Our "Home way from Home"
On Ponte Vecchio bridge over the Arno river
First of many gelatos
Filippo Brunellescheli parade

Our street- Via Velluti
Our apartment
First dinner & first of many pizzas
Buonanotte!







Monday, April 14, 2014

Read, Set…Go!

It has been a long time coming…
We began talking about the trip like this- "Next spring we are thinking…" Then,  "In April, we are going…" We then set a date, "On April 15th…" But now we are saying, "On Tuesday we leave."
Today I realized that means tomorrow!!!

We are excited!  It is hard to fully digest that what has been a dream will shortly be an experience for our family.  
Today, the boys are experiencing their last day of 2nd and 4th grade and Matt & I are organizing documents and zipping up suitcases.  Tomorrow we leave for Italy!

Holding you all in our hearts-