Saturday, June 25, 2016

Back to the Highlands- Cusco to the Sacred Valley

June 20, 2016

This morning we were again escorted by Julio, this time back to the airport for our flight to Cusco which was once the capital of the Inca Empire and the gateway to the Sacred Valley.  The city is crowded and colorful with the festivals celebrating the city and the week leading up to Inti Raymi winter solstice celebration... music, marching, dancing... fun!


Plaza de Armas (the main square)-
filled with colonial buildings that were built right on top of Inca foundations

Festival fun...


First cups of Coca tea- to help with the altitude change

View of the Peruvian Andes

Along the drive to our hotel in the Sacred Valley we stopped at Awana Kwancha- a camelid farm and  cooperative of local weavers to learn about the differences in these animals and see how the beautiful textiles from their wool are made.
We learned the differences between alpaca, llamas, vicunas & guanacos...

and got to feed them! 

Women from local communities work on site to offer live examples of the traditional and intricate weaving techniques- it is a family affair!

Each piece can take upwards of 2 months (sometimes 8 months!) to complete-
it is amazing to watch them work!

She (and her pup) are just setting up to start a new piece-
notice the beautiful bright colors of the threads which are all hand dyed from natural plants, herbs, minerals and bugs!

Two of the main staples of Peru are the many many varieties of corn and potatoes-

The Urubamba River runs from the high Andes ranges through the middle of the Sacred Valley-
during Inca times there were never villages in the valley like this one pictured.  
All of the valley was used for agriculture and the villages were on the mountains.

The land in the Sacred valley is some of the most fertile in the world and it is still farmed mostly by primitive techniques-
no tractors...just bulls & plows and harvested by hand.

Faithful with the journal writing!

First of four nights at Aranwa Hotel

Father's Day... in Peru!

June 18-19, 2016

We flew from Ecuador arriving late in the evening into the capital city of Peru- Lima, and were greeted by the most gregarious character yet.  Julio introduced us to Lima and escorted us to our hotel in the Miraflores district so that we could get a good rest before our Father's Day tour of the city.

Julio had Peruvian hats for the boys-
He was so excited about the gifts that he opened the bags himself!

Street party for Father's Day-
Kelly starting the day with a little zumba ...

Lima is a city of 10 million people (I think the biggest city we've visited overseas)-
It is the first place we have been in South America that has looked more like the US to me.

Now back down at sea level, we decided to walk straight to the coastal boardwalk for the ocean view

Colorful mosaics & paragliding launches off the cliff right behind us

Some free time doing what boys like to do...
Throwing rocks!!

All along the coast were pop-up surf shops- complete with wetsuits, boards and lessons-
There were a lot of people in the water!

Reminiscent of our arrival at Manly Beach last year...
the boys just couldn't keep out of the water, clothes and all!

After lunch we toured the Colonial portion of Lima-
I just loved theses "boxes" on the buildings

The Colonial Square

Riot police ready if necessary....
...just a tiny bit unnerving

Happy Father's Day Matt-
WE LOVE YOU!

During the colonial in Lima, an edict was issued that women were not allowed to be seen from the street...
these covered boxes allowed them to watch the activity in the square without being seen.

Santo Domingo Monastery-
the walls of the walkways are covered in tiles from southern Spain- beautiful!

The Cathedral of Santo Domingo

The entrance to Museo Larco-
this is a privately-owned museum of pre-Columbian artifacts housed in an eighteenth century building that was built over a 7th century pyramid

This museum was a great precursor to our upcoming week in the Sacred Valley of the Incas-
there were over 45,000 pieces of pottery & textiles and great info giving the history of the peoples of South America

We ended the night at the Parque de la Reserva-
a place of magical water circuits and laser light shows

Trying to decide how to make it out of the middle without getting wet!

Sunday, June 19, 2016

Last Day in Ecuador-

June 18, 2016

We spent our last day in Ecuador traveling by car . We drove out of the city, over the mountains and down to the lowlands of Guayaquil (Ecuador's second largest city & home of Ruly, our naturalist from the Galapagos) so that we could to fly to Peru.  In just a couple of hours we experienced some dramatic changes in the climate, vegetation and elevation!


One last snack of the local pork-
prepared in a little different way than we had previously eaten...
they split the pig before roasting and use a blow torch to "fry" the skin.
It was really delicious-

A foggy U-shaped valley of eucalyptus trees that can only grow at altitudes lower than 11,000 feet

We entered Cajas National Park-
"Cajas" means "cold"... it lived up to it's name!

These tiny flowers (that is Nash's fingertip next to the bloom) grow at 14,000 feet

A beautiful lake at high altitude in the clouds-
Cuenca gets more than 60% of it's water from this mountain

Hundred year old Paperbark trees that look like something straight out of The Lord of the Rings or Harry Potter- 

Daddy & Nash having a test of wills-
who could hold their hand the longest in the freezing water?

Hot chocolate to warm us from the inside out
(Ross was still not happy about how cold it was outside...)

At the Continental Divide between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans-
At the point called the Tres Cruces (Three Crosses), it is tradition for travelers to place a rock near the 3 crosses in thanks for safe passage over the mountain
**Notice how windy & cloudy it is- and did I say cold?

10 minutes later...
just a few kilometers down the mountain and in lower altitude,  the sun came out to warm us & the flora already changed 

We were "sandwiched" between the clouds-
clouds above us and clouds below us covering the lowlands

A great view of the road we had to travel-
Franco called it "dramatic"

The boys styling their hats and happy about the climate change (especially R)

Just a few minutes later...
we drove right into the blanket of clouds that had been below us!
Can you see the road? Neither could I!!! So glad we had an experienced driver to take us down the mountain-
He told us "No problema"

Nearing the bottom it continued to get warmer and we continued to peel off the "onion layer" of clothing.
We went from tundra, to sub-tropical into a tropical climate and came across tropical fruit stands all along the road.

All freshly cut from the tree and waiting to be eaten...

Once at sea level again but before we reached the airport, we visited a humble family Cacoa farm.  The family was happy to show us how the cacoa plant grows and produces the bean that makes chocolate.  It was a great privilege to learn about this part of the Ecuadorian culture from these generous people.
In this small plot of just a few hectares, the family grows, harvests, ferments & dries cacoa beans to be sold at market.
They also have a few banana, papaya, chili plants and an exotic fruit that we had never seen or heard of.

Isn't this beautiful?

Marco uses his expert knife skills to expose the raw bean covered with a white sweet membrane...

If you put it in mouth and suck on it like a Jolly Rancher, out comes the dark bean that is used for chocolate.
**This of course is not how the fruit is processed-
the beans are put into a special wooden box for "fermenting" that takes 5-7 days,
 then they are spread out on bamboo racks and left to dry in the sun. 

Ross just had to try the chili pepper...
the smaller, the hotter!!!

Thankful for the opportunity to meet with this local farming family!

Down the road we passed HUGE banana plantations...

Good-bye and Best Wishes to Franco-
(He's getting married in September!)

Good-bye Ecuador-
Next stop: Lima, Peru