Summer 2019-Morocco by way of Portugal

May 28-29, 2019

In 2013, we took our very first overseas family trip.  We chose to start exploring the world in East Africa, visiting the countries of Kenya & Tanzania.  Since that time, Africa is held as a special place for me.  The people, the landscapes and the flora & fauna were nothing like I had ever known before.  It was a grand & wonderful experience... And the boys were so little...

Kenya 2013

Now, 6 years later we are returning to the continent of Africa, but to the northern country of Morocco with a stopover in Portugal on our way.
As soon as we could, after the boys finished exams, we left Memphis.
Memphis to Atlanta to Boston to Lisbon...

Mom is nearly the smallest in the family now but still packs the heaviest bag!

14+ hours after leaving home we arrived at the Martinhal apartments, conveniently located in the Chiado district of  Lisbon, Portugal. 

As it was early in the morning, our room wasn't quite ready but they had a sitting room that worked well for a power nap.

For our first afternoon, we took a 3 hour walking tour through a few areas of Old Town.  Lisbon, like Rome, is also called "The City of Seven Hills".  Our guide joked that no matter whether you are coming or going, you must walk uphill... we found that to be mostly true!

We began our tour in the Bairro Alta district which is the "Bohemian" area filled with artists & students, street art and nightlife... medieval built buildings nestled together along narrow cobblestone streets housing bars & shops and residences...

Of course we are always interested in the food-
This time of year is the season for cherries & figs.  The figs were so big and tasty!

BUT the winner of the favorite Portuguese food of the day goes to the Pasteis da Nata!
Ian took us to his favorite local bakery to try this delicious egg custard filled pastry.

The Monteigaria Bakery is mostly kitchen with a narrow counter and standing room only to enjoy your dessert.

They make over 2000 tarts fresh daily.  The ones were ate were still warm from the oven & sprinkled with a little powdered sugar and cinnamon.
*Note: during our few days in Lisbon we became repeat customers!

Purple flowering Jacaranda trees and the ruins of the Carmo Convent & Church-

In November of 1755, Lisbon was hit with an earthquake, tsunami & firestorm all at once almost completely destroying the city and port.  These walls of what was the largest church at the time are a reminder of the devastation that occurred.

Just around the corner from the church is a Gothic structure, the Santa Justa Lift, also known as the "tourist elevator".  Lines to the top of the observatory are 1+ hour long... We walked directly up to the midway bridge and had a wonderful view of the historical part of the city. (No line/no wait!)

View toward the Port

View toward Alfama district and Saint Jorge Castle

Ian informed us that the sour cherry liquor founded in Portugal in the 1700s, Ginjinha, is as iconic as the Pasteis da Nata and something not to be missed...aparently these tiny little bars open at 7am for any local who might need a little to start their day...

All along the streets and squares of Lisbon you find intricate mosaic tilework- Calcada Portuguesa.  Some of it it dizzying... especially if you had too many Ginjinhas...

Rossio square

Sao Domingos Church & the 1506 Jewish Massacre Memorial
In April of 1506, thousands of Jews were killed and burned outside this church that then was later destroyed itself by fire. It is said that the Jewish people were blamed for the drought & plague.

Ended the first day with a dinner of tapas at Bairro Avillez

Fun times-

Ubud & Balinese Cooking

June 25, 2018

Today we meet with a local chef and after a visit to the local market, we will try our hand at cooking- Balinese style!

The market is bustling, early in the morning. 
Many of the vendors begin setting up before the sun- around 4am.

A grandmother teaching her granddaughter the ways of the market...first, you must park your bike.

Another grandmother working hard...

Flower offerings-
Alot of time and energy is spent on making these colorful bouquets as offerings to the Hindu gods. As a daily ritual, worshippers place them everywhere...in front of their food stalls & homes, on sidewalks and even in the middle of the street.

Sweet rice cake as a pre-breakfast snack

The chef showing us how to pick the right ingredients for our cooking experience.
This torch ginger flower is one we will not be able to find back in the US.

Local bus

The chef's home-
In this area of Bali (or maybe all of Bali), families live in multi-generational "compounds" of 5-6 homes of centered around a family temple.

The family's temple

Not only did he invite us into his home & beautiful garden, our chef also prepared a typical Balinese breakfast for us to enjoy before we spend the next 3 hours in the kitchen preparing lunch!

After our delicious breakfast, we took a short walk to the outdoor kitchen built in the middle of the nearby terraced rice fields of the village. 

Before cooking, we have a lesson in rice farming-

It is back breaking, muddy work-

Matt gives it a go.

Plow first,

then plant...

Then have a refreshing coconut drink.

Now to begin the cooking class!
All Balinese dishes begin with a basic spice paste called "Bumbu Bali"- The aromatic ingredients include, ginger, turmeric, chilis, lemongrass, tomato, candlenut, onion, ginger & lime leaves.

We don our aprons & get to work!

I hope I will have as cheerful helpers in the kitchen when we get home...

Once the Bumbu is made, it is added to ground chicken & formed around lemongrass stalks to make a tasty satay.

Ready for the grill-

There is an art to folding the banana leaves in order to keep the yummy filling inside-

Just like this!

For dessert- crepes with sweetened mango-yummm...

What a satisfying and very fun morning for us all!

Look at this beautiful food-

Only one thing left to do-

We have enjoyed food tours in many different countries but for the 4 of us together, to take part in actually cooking a meal while abroad is a family "first".
Based on today's unique experience and enjoyment, I sure hope it is not the last.

Siladen to The Chedi Club-Ubud, Bali

June 23-24, 2018

When we first saw the size of this tiny little island we could not have guessed that we would need or want more than 3 nights here but Ana & Miguel (actually, all of the staff) made us feel as though we were personally invited guests to this amazing place...this, and the fact that the diving and the food and the sunsets are so spectacular, made us want to stay much longer...

Galen & Romina (dive masters) & Ana stood and waved from the shore until we were out of sight.

Boat "taxi" back to Wori Harbour to head to the airport

This is the plane that will fly us 1562 km (970 miles) southwest to Denpasar, Bali

Dad's favorite airplane snack

We landed here in the capital city of Denpasar but our final destination is a 1 hour drive into the middle of the island to the town of Ubud. It is in an agricultural area in the central highlands & is  known as the cultural heart of Bali. Many westerners may remember this town from Julia Roberts' spiritual journey here in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. 

We were all looking for someone with a "Matt Kaye Family" sign...surprise!

Our resting place for the next 3 nights: The Chedi Club Tanah Gajah

"Tanah Gajah" means "Elephant Realm". The hotel's name comes from the previous owner's inspiration from the nearby Goa Gajah or Elephant Temple & all the elephant statues displayed throughout the property. Less than 2% of the population in Indonesia practice Hinduism but here in Bali nearly 85% of the people are Hindu. 

In the mornings at breakfast we watched the duck farmer with his bamboo stick guiding his ducks to the rice paddies to feed.
It is a symbiotic act. The ducks get their fill of a nutritious meal and at the same time help the fields by breaking down the straw, eating the insects and leaving a little fertilizer behind.  

There are a lot of activities to do here in this town of only 30,000.  For our first full day here we chose an adventure on the river- white water rafting on the Ayung River.

Lots of steps to get down to the water-

The Ayung River is the longest & widest river in Bali.  During the wet season it has Class IV rapids but now in the dry season, the river is a little bit safer with only Class II & III ratings.

We passed through lush rainforests...

...carved walls...

...locals selling concessions to river travellers...

...beautiful waterfalls...

and rickety bridges still used by locals!

The trip down the river was less of an adrenaline rush and more of a float trip but still a very fun way to see some beautiful nature and interesting sights.

On our walk to lunch we also saw some interesing sights:

This flame kissed truck carrying pigs

Clucking chickens

A local artist's home and gallery

Wood Carving Masters-
They transform a block of wood into beautiful pieces of art completely from their imagination using only hand tools and their feet!

Musicians at dinner

All of the meals at the Chedi Club were served in the open air restuarant adjacent to the rice paddies- it was a lovely setting both day and night.