Wednesday, May 28, 2014

Goodbye Naples, Hello Rome-

May 18-

Before we hopped on the train to Rome, we spent a few hours in Naples at the National Archeological Museum where some marvelous  Roman statuary & most of the treasures discovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum are housed. We also made time for one last taste of pizza in the city where it was founded.

The story was told that Pizza Margherita gets its name from the Queen for whom it was first made. Naples was vying to become the capital city of Italy in the late 1800s and wanted to flatter & impress the Queen with a dish in her honor using the colors of the Italian flag- red (tomatoes), white (mozzarella cheese) & green (basil).   We don't know if she liked it but the boys voted it their favorite.

The boys striking a pose-
...sort of like Hercules...
A fresco of Mt. Vesuvius from the Pompeii excavation,
 depicting it single peaked as it was before it blew its top- literally 
Neapolitan pizza in Naples-
yes, the boys each got their own & gobbled them all gone.
Our apartment building in Rome-
You can see our terrace on the top floor
We are right around the corner from the incredibly crowded Spanish steps-
Can you find us in the throng?
First night trip to Trevi Fountain to toss in a coin

Spiaggia- ( Another Day spent on the Beach)-

May 17-



Last day in Positano--(sigh)

We chose to let the boys spend it on the beach.  Matt also let me do a little shopping... 

Fact: 90% of the shops in Positano are for women.


The photos below need little explanation...

Beginning of the day on the beach-
Mid-morning-
Middle of the day-
Late afternoon-
Early evening-
This gentleman and his 2 sons make their own shoes-
You chose the style & the leather then they fit you & make the sandal while you wait!
Dinner & dessert-still on the beach-
Ending the day ON THE BEACH!
We loved our time at the Amalfi Coast!!

What a Volcano can do-

May 16-

The entire Bay of Naples & its towns lie at the foot of a looming mountain that is an active Volcano. It is considered one of the most dangerous volcanos in the world because the area below is so densely populated- nearly 3 million people at its base today.  Its most recent eruption was in 1944 but the most legendary eruption is the one recorded by Pliny the Younger in 79 AD.  It is this eruption that caused the disappearance of many ancient towns and moved the coast back hundreds of meters. 

Today we climbed the mountain to have a view of the cone of the volcano up close and toured 2 of the towns demolished by the eruption of 79 AD- Pompeii and Herculaneum.  

Pompeii is the more well known of the two.  It was the larger & more cosmopolitan city- a port city with many merchants, shops, fountains, 2 theaters, an amphitheater, government buildings, a large forum, temples, brothels,  palaces and modest homes.  It hosted visitors from all over  Europe.  Almost 2/3 of the city has been completely excavated allowing modern day visitors to get a sense of what it was like to live in an ancient town.  

Herculaneum was a smaller mostly resort/beach town for wealthy Romans.  It is actually better preserved with homes and baths still intact with frescos and mosaics.  There are still some homes with wooden doorway & entryways that are "fossilized and carbonized" (as our energetic guide Francesca repeated each time she pointed out one).

We learned that most of the population of Pompeii perished from falling ash and poisonous smoke while the residents of Herculaneum were buried by molten lava.  The differences in the proximity of the town to the volcano & their destruction explains the differences in the way they present today.  It truly is a marvel how archeologists over the last 200 years have been able to chip away the volcanic earth and stone to reveal these buried cities... 


The streets of Herculaneum
The world's first fast food bar-
the openings held pots of soup to be sold to passersby for a quick meal
Fully intact mosaic in public bathhouse
Mosaic from the "House of Neptune"
Pompeii
Premier theatre seats
Pompeii's Forum with Vesuvius in the background-
In 79 AD, this was a single peaked mountain almost twice as high.

Wheat grinder in a bakery-
 found nearby was an oven with 8 loaves of fossilized bread "cooking" inside
The volcanic ash buried residents and after thousands of years a void was left where a body used to be-
archeologists were able to make a plaster mold...
The terror is too much to think about for too long...
View from atop Mt. Vesuvius-
another long UPHILL hike!
Overlooking the crater cone
Sulfur gases rising from the cone

Capri & Anacapri

May 15-

Today we set out for the beautiful island of Capri- another place of inspiration for writers and the place where the Roman Emperor Tiberius built his island getaway, Villa Jovis.  It has been written that when he saw this island and the vantage point it provided from atop the cliff, he traded the much larger island of Ischia for Capri.  Later, he spent 10 years in exile here.  I could too!

Once docked we headed toward Anacapri, the small town on the higher side of the island, to explore first and then returned to Capri later in the day when all the crowd from the cruise ships were heading back to their boats.  We were so fortunate to have such a clear day that provided us with a beautiful view of the Bay of Naples.   

On the ferry to Capri
Capri Island-(pronounced KAH-pree)
Chair lift to the highest point on the highest point-
Mount Solero on Anacapri
View from the lift on the way up
At the top of the chair lift-

Famous Faraglioni Rocks
Ischia (I think...)
And back down
The ruins of Villa Jovis-  reached only by a 45 min hike UPHILL...
We made it!
A tour of an Italian city would not be compete without visit to a house of worship...

San Michele Chiesa- a 17th century church with a floor made completely from majolica tiles illustrating the story of Creation- bellissimo!




Sunday, May 25, 2014

Boat on the Water-

May 14-

Our first full day at the coast-  we had to get on the sand & water!  

The boys spent part of the morning building sand castles and fortified sand forts then we headed to the sea for a boat cruise along the coast.

I think the photos will tell the story with only a few words from me....

First sand castles
Best seat on the boat
Rafello
Looks like a sandcastle but is a hotel
Amalfi Town
A bridge that people drive across and dive off 
Another great seat 
Notice a bit of a rain cloud in the background...
Yes sir, that is rain
The water gets a little rough...
Il Capitano says its OK
The ride gets a little bumpy
Back to Positano intact!
Even with the small rain storm, it will stand in my memory as a peaceful time on the water.  We all loved being out on the sea- the hum of the motor, the cool spray of the water, the warmth of the sun and the wind in your hair....ahhh-

Thank you Matt for not renting the rubber boat!!!!

Dinner this night was great too-
The owner of the restaurant let the boys help cook their pizzas-


Beautiful ending to a beautiful day